Monsieur Gerardin, who recently took over the hotel with his wife Dominique, acknowledges that it is, in fact, more of a destination for enthusiasts than a hotel.
"Our visitors are interested in architecture, artists, designers, people looking for unusual places. Ninety-five percent of the people who come know why they are here. They accept that they are in a special place and we encourage them to stay as if this was their own home."
And like most homes, the Hotel le Corbusier could do with some sprucing up. Until purchased by the Gerardins in early 2003, the same owner had run the hotel for more than 50 years. The place had become tired and shabby. Oddly, this contributes to its appeal and its Flash Gordon crossed with Blade Runner ambiance.
Enthusiastic restoration of the Hotel Le Corbusier
The current owners are enthusiastic restorers. Having previously spent nine years bringing the locally renowned Art Deco house of architect Gaston Castel back to life, they are now refurbishing the hotel, aiming for a UNESCO World Heritage classification. The day we left, experts from the Le Corbusier Foundation arrived to consult about appropriate materials and furnishings. In keeping with the functional philosophy of the design, they've already approved one departure from period authenticity -- the creation of a Wi-Fi hotspot. Possibly, le Corbusier would have appreciated the functionality.A hotel stay offers access to the rest of the landmark building. For a small fee, you can visit a residential apartment to admire the Jean Prouvé staircase, the Charlotte Perriand-designed kitchen and classic chaise longue and the two storey-tall, floor-to-ceiling, thermopane windows.
A jigsaw-puzzle arrangement of the 337 units means that access is only available on every third floor. This, in turn, frees space for the wide, gloomy corridors that are meant to resemble streets in a vertical city. On the third and fourth levels, an airy Japanese-inspired gallery is a sudden surprise.
After our apartment tour, our guide led us to the roof to admire the gymnasium, running track, wading pool, infants school and mini-amphitheatre. With absolutely no irony whatsoever, he sang the praises of the abstract beach (complete with concrete sand dunes). Behind him, the Mediterranean sparkled as it danced along the many real beaches of Marseille's deeply indented coast.
Staying in the Hotel Le Corbusier
The hotel is easy to reach on Marseille's very user-friendly public transportation. It's about 20 minutes from Marseille Vieux Port Metro Station and the city centre by bus and Metro. A day pass, usable on both, costs 4.5 Euro at Metro Stations.Studio rooms with Perriand kitchens, large terraces, shower cabines and magnificent sea views cost 95 Euros for up to 4 people. The 50-year-old decor is undeniably tired at the moment but the experience is authentic. Large rooms, at 85 Euros, lack terraces but are much more comfortable, with polished hardwood floors, sofas, marble and mosaic bathrooms. Continental breakfast cost 8 Euros.