Mais oui! C'est incroyable, magnifique et' well, that's about all my high school French I remember. A lot of good those five years did.
However, LIVING in Paris (well, an extended visit) allowed me the privilege of getting up close and personal with all things Parisienne. And most of it was tres bon. Don't even get me started on the cheese. But if you like to eat (ahem) and especially love bread and cheese, Parisian-style, and happen to be jonesing for the real deal, than look no further than Portland, Oregon.
Yup. I said it. French Portland (not the one in Maine, although there may be influences there, but that's for another column) is a divine respite from a busy life.
I was delivered to French heaven on the West Coast, thanks to my dutiful and adorable hostess, Lila Martin of Travel Portland (more about her later). Not to mention the eclectic and yummy cuisine from all over the globe. It's a foodie's town, trust me on this. A foodie's town, a spa-aficionado's town, a people-lovers' town.it's just a wonderful town. Excusez-moi for gushing.
It's simply a very, very, very cool place to visit, explore and contemplate moving here. Seriously, it's that friendly a place. And I've been to many, many cities, and outside of the Canadian ones, Portland is the friendliest, non-discriminatory and welcoming metropolis I've been to. No kidding. And I tend to kid a lot. Not this time.
A French Welcome in Portland
And so, when I was assigned to write some stories about Portland (the spas are divine!) imagine my surprise to see who the Manager of Public Relations and Sustainability is: Veronique Meunier. If I hadn't been inspired previously to discover the French side of this City of Roses, I sure was now! And I was not disappointed. Can't get more authentic than that. Talk about divine providence. Or at least a cool coincidence!
In any case, Veronique and her delightful Regional Media Coordinator Lila Martin of Travel Portland took great pains to regale me with French twists and turns.
Surprisingly, Portland is a city of neighborhoods, winding streets, cool shops, amazing gardens, public spaces and museums you actually want to visit.
Did you know that there's a Nob Hill in Portland? If you know San Francisco, you'll realize it's a little homage to that city's famed Nob Hill (often joked about as 'Snob Hill). Hey, don't shoot the messenger.
The Portland Boulangerie and Cafe Scene
So Lila, Vero (nickname) and I traversed the city limits and wandered the welcoming avenues to visit a handful of boulangeries and cafes in this people-friendly city, where quality, local ingredients are transformed into mini-masterpieces of croissants, baguettes and chocolate the way delicacies should be made.
Please forgive me if I mix up any of stores and cafes, for there were so many quick stops, I honestly felt like I was dashing down the La Rue Boulangerie. And not one shop or caf' disappointed. They were all delightful, cozy and some surprisingly expansive. With informative and intriguing owners who were happy to discuss their wares.
Take your pick. By the time my second day was complete, my head swam with bits and pieces of Portland's French accent, and it was a good thing to have a handy hostess to get me moving along. Otherwise, I'd still be in the first shop, noshing on a crisp panini sandwich.
Although the true French may not consider a simple baguette a delicacy, rather a staple, when I lived in Paris and tasted this 'bread,' it tasted like eating magic. The soft flakiness, the disappearing sensation on your tongue of something indescribable'.okay, I'll stop now. And yes, Portland's offerings come very close.
Where to Eat French in Portland
Now that I've got you thinking about your stomach, here comes a variety of places to check out. If it's mid-day (who wakes up early if you don't have to?) have brunch at the Saint Honore Boulangerie, 2335 NW Thurman St., since dining there may be the closest to feeling like you're in Paris. Here's an aside: Okay, maybe it's me, but I am a sucker for all things French. So, Portland, you had me at 'Bonjour.'
In any case, this bakery is a wonderful example of what this city has to offer in casual yet authentic, French dining opportunities. Do you even have to ask how the bread was?
I closed my eyes and pretended I was on the Left Bank. When I opened them, Vero simply smiled at me, and probably thought I was crazy. And, unlike American coffee shops and restaurants that urge you to eat and vamoose, the French habit of encouraging leisurely experiences is evident here.
If you've not experienced the shocking difference in attitude, it is just that: shocking. French caf' owners are nearly insulted if you leave too soon. 'They must not like my appetizers! I will flog myself when I take my next break,' they may be thinking. It may not be that severe, but believe me folks, the French like when you loiter and sip bowls of caf' au lait verrrryyyy slowwwllyyy.
The menu features handcrafted artisan breads, pastries and dessert delicacies. With one foot in the New World and one in the Old, Dominique Geulin's French heritage has guided his visionary restaurant here. Growing up in his family's bakery business in Normandy, France, he learned the value of using native ingredients, and brought that sensibility of local pride to this fair city.
Portland's Farm to Table a la Francaise
Dominique uses only sustainable, native ingredients, visiting the region's farmers and growers often, to ensure his fruits and grains are of the highest available quality. It sure showed at our lunch, as simple as it was. For as we all know, if the simple stuff is good, the more complicated things must be as good, if not better.
In 1990 Dominique received the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France Award in the Boulangerie category. And who presented the award? The late French President Francois Mitterand. And even better, Dominique constructed the Eiffel Tower entirely from bread.