Montsegur

Montsegur is simply a modest, tiny village in the Midi Pyrenees, yet somehow it has the power to cast a spell on its visitors. On paper, it is hardly remarkable. It’s a small town with a few streets, a couple cafés and a museum. In reality, though, there is some intangible allure here that draws people back again and again.

Pog Mountain is a tremendously popular climb in this area, and it rewards those who take on the uphill walk with eerie chateau ruins. The chateau was the setting for one of the biggest massacres of the Cathars.

Although Cathars remained elsewhere, this is widely considered the spot of the final fatal blow to the group. After holding off the inquisitors for months, the thousand-some Cathars finally were conquered. Given the choice between converting to Christianity or burning alive, most chose death.

Montsegur Sightseeing

Pog Mountain in Montsegur has almost a cult following as an on-foot challenge. Especially popular with Europeans, this is the ultimate on-foot adventure. Climb the steep mountain, now with the assistance of stair-like tree-limbs and rocks, for about 30 minutes. At the top, you will be rewarded with an array of splendid views from all sides of the village of Montsegur, neighboring mountain peaks and farms.

The best prize of all are the ruins of the castle that served as the Cathar’s last stand, partially preserved. The atmosphere inside the ruins is intense. This is, quite frankly, one of my favorite memories from all of my travels.

The village also features a museum that is inexpensive and well worth a quick visit to learn more about the rich history of Montsegur. It is also a lovely village for wandering to see Southwestern France houses and villas, a church, and lovely flower box-lined windows.

Where to Stay in Montsegur

I can hardly say enough wonderful things about the bed-and-breakfast L’Oustal. This isn’t the fanciest spot on earth. In fact, there are no TVs in the rooms. But the abundantly friendly hosts, Annick and Serge Germa, along with their charming pets (like Oscar, a vivacious French bulldog they call the “king of Montsegur”), make a stay here memorable.

You could hardly find a better location for climbing Pog, and there is a splendid view of the mountain and chateau from the Germas’ private garden. There are a few rooms suitable for families of four or six.

Don’t miss out on dinner, which involves multiple courses and multiple hours, and will likely be among the best home-cooked French meals of your life. Breakfast is a glorious display of baked goods and local preserves.

Hotel Costes is a charming nine-room inn in the village. The rooms are cozy, as is the restaurant with its stone walls and dark woods.